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Keep rolling, rolling, rolling: Moving Montepulciano

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Piazze Grande, Duomo and the Wells Piazze Grande, Duomo and the Wells

Staring down a barrel is usually something to be avoided, however for the Tuscan town of Montepulciano the Bravio delle Botti is one of the highlights of the social calendar.

Excitement grows during the summer months as the flags of the 8 quarters of the city calmly sway from side to side until the last Sunday of August when the locals join in the swaying as they cheer on their athletes along a mile-long wine barrel pushing race.

flag throwing montepulciano

Something that was very much the way of life in olden times was to build a wall around your city in order to protect those dwelling inside from attacks from neighbouring counties that were rife at that time. However the modern era has very much changed the scenery somewhat with most big cities such as Milan only managing to keep small commemorative sections and “portas” (doors) intact.

One of several not playing by the rulebook is the hilltop fortress of Montepulciano, which amazingly has remained practically untouched since 1580.
piazza grande montepulciano
With their walls still upstanding and no major construction having been undertaken a certain heritage has been preserved here, as well as a great number of wine barrels.The banner known as the Panno (which is where the name Bravio stems from as the actual term for the cloth is Bravium) is decorated with an image of San Giovanni Decollato, the Patron Saint of the town and who the event is in honour of. By 7pm the buzz is swarming within the city walls as the pairs of pushers prepare for what will be a whistle-stop tour of this medieval majesty.
etruscan vineyard

In just under ten minutes they will have passed the beauty and splendour of Renaissance buildings leading up to Piazza Grande, which hosts the Palazzo Communale and the characteristic wells Pozzo dei Grifi and Pozzo dei Leoni.

So despite attacks in the 12th and 14th Centuries by the Republic of Siena and nearby nobility respectively, this ancient Roman Garrison (from the 4th Century BC) has survived to become a pearl frozen in time. Possibly the best view of this collection of stone and brick houses clinging to the narrow limestone ridge comes from the Tempio di San Biagio at the foot of the settlement. Sandwiched between Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia it is the surrounding vineyards that have produced fine wines such as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montepulciano, of which I’m sure a hefty amount was consumed on that last Sunday in August.

TRAVEL TIPS
winding streets of montepulciano

So the first option is to fly into Florence (with British Airways from London Gatwick) or Pisa (with Easyjet from London Luton, Gatwick and Bristol or Ryanair from Stansted, Bournemouth, East Midlands, Leeds, Liverpool, Glasgow and Edinburgh). Alternatively you can take a flight to Rome with Easyjet (from Bristol or London Gatwick), Ryanair (from Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow, Edinburgh, East Midlands, London Stansted and Gatwick) or British Airways (from London Heathrow or Gatwick). If you arrive into Pisa you will need to take a train or bus from Pisa to Florence in order to continue your journey onto Montepulciano. Whether you’re coming from Rome (1hr 45min) or Florence (2hr 45min) you need to get off at Chiusi/Chianciano Terme station and from there you will be able to take one of the local LFI buses that run in co-ordination with the trains.
Ideally you should go by car in order to bring back as much wine as possible but if you’re considering when to go, the month of August is always a busy one but a fun time to go with a number of festivals ranging from the Bruscello (locally produced musicals and plays on August 15th), the Cantiere Internazionale d’Arte showing off modern and classical dance, theatre and art from the end of July to mid-August, and finally not forgetting of course the Bravio delle Botti. 
Obviously with a history of vineyards dating back to Etruscan times then a highlight of your visit will be first of all wine tasting and then wine buying. There are little nibbles of cheese and salami at most cantieres (wine cellars) in case you go early in the morning. Otherwise just take a leisurely stroll amongst the untouched winding streets discovering grand churches and cathedrals, picturesque piazzas or simply enjoy the view of the splendid Tuscan countryside.

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