Venice

Doge’s Palace

The Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace, was the seat of the government of Venice for centuries.  As well as being the home of the Doge (the elected ruler of Venice) it was the venue for its law courts, its civil administration and bureaucracy and – until its relocation across the Bridge of Sighs – the city jail.  Initially built as castle in the ninth century, it was transformed under the dogeate of Sebastiano Ziani (1172-78) as dogal residence. During the first years of 1300 it was enlarged and the works lasted until the 1463.  

One of the many acts of vandalism perpetrated by Napoleon upon Venice was the destruction of the sculptures of Foscari and his lions.  The sculptures that stand today are later replicas. The palace is enormously impressive.  Huge walls of white limestone and pink marble are softened by porticos, finely wrought loggias and a series of balconies.  The Palazzo Ducale is a superb example of Venetian Gothic architecture.  Work on the palace has barely stopped in the intervening centuries (today parts of it can be closed, as the building receives constant care and restoration). 

Do the ‘Secret Itinerary Tour’

For a few Euros more than the standard price, as well as getting access to the palace you also get a 75 minute escorted tour around parts not normally opened to the public.  These include hidden passages and concealed doors, secret council rooms and the very cell from which the notorious lover Giacomo Casanova made his escape in 1775.

Tickets need to be booked in advance as numbers are limited, but this has the added bonus of not having to join the queues on the day.   

Harry’s Bar

The bar synonymous with Venice, it must be said that nobody makes a Bellini (fresh peach juice and prosecco) quite like its creators.  Opened by the Cipriani family across from the famous hotel, Harry’s is steeped in history and has long been frequented by famous people – it was a favourite of Ernest Hemingway.  Other notable customers have included Charlie Chaplin, Orson Welles and Woody Allen. People may go to Harry’s Bar for the Bellini and the Carpaccio but what they really go there for is the atmosphere.   Prices are steep but they don’t deter people, locals and tourists alike.

The Piazza San Marco has been the symbol of Venice for centuries.  Napoleon described it as “The finest drawing-room in Europe”.   The majority of the must see sights are clustered around Piazza San Marco:

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

The Campanile began life as a lighthouse in the 9^th century and was frequently modified up to the early sixteenth century.  The present structure is a reconstruction after the original collapsed and was reduced to rubble in 1902.  At 99 metres, the campanile is the tallest structure in the city.  The top of the tower accessed either by hundreds of steps or the easier option of the elevator, offers a 360 degree view of Venice.

A visit first thing in the morning is recommended before it gets too crowded or at the end of the day as the majority of day visitors disperse.

Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Basilica)

The Basilica dominates St. Marks Square.  It is dedicated to the city’s patron saint, St. Mark.  Originally built in 832 to house his remains, both the basilica and the Palazzo Ducale were destroyed by fire in 976 during an uprising against the doge.  The present basilica was originally finished in 1094 and embellished over the subsequent centuries.

The basilica is open on most days from 6.30am for prayers, but is not open to tourists until 9am.  The coffee shops are the places to be seen in, in the evening.  The smartest and most expensive are long time rivals ‘Florian’ and ‘Quadri’.

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

Located on Venice’s Grand Canal, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is one of Europe ’s premier museums devoted to modern art.  With masterpieces ranging in style from Cubism and Surrealism to Abstract Expressionism, the collection has become one of the most respected and cultural attractions in Venice. There is a Museum Shop and cafe in the new wing, where temporary exhibitions of modern art are frequently mounted on the basis of an annual program. 

Jewish Ghetto

The word ghetto became synonymous with neighbourhoods set aside for Jews throughout Europe, and the Venetian Ghetto was Europe’s first.  It was established in 1516 when all the city’s Jews were ordered to move to the island of Ghetto Nuovo.  The island only had one bridge connecting it to the rest of the city and each night the bridge gate was closed off the keep the Jews inside - the grooves in the marble from the iron bars are still visible.   Often Jews fled to Venice when they came under persecution in other places.  Each wave of Jewish immigrants established its own synagogues with their distinctive rites.  The Ghetto looks quite different from the rest of Venice.  As the Jewish population grew, they were allowed to spread into the Ghetto Vecchio (Old) and the Ghetto Nuovissima (New), but there was still gross overcrowding.  As a result the Ghetto buildings resulted in a stack of low-ceilinged storeys, usually as many as seven. In 1979 Napoleon removed the gates of the Ghetto, but the Jews didn’t achieve equal rights with other Venetians until Unification with Italy in 1866. Hourly tours of the ghetto are available daily except Saturday starting at 10am from the Jewish Museum, in Campo Ghetto Nuovo. 

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

The Grand Canal is the lifeblood of Venice and the only true way to appreciate it is on a boat.  At almost four kilometres long and between thirty and seventy metres wide, it divides the city in half.  The majority of the most important palaces in Venice stand on the Canal Grande, many only visible from the water. 

The following is a list of highlights on the Canal, starting Santa Lucia train station to St. Mark’s Square

•  Jewish Ghetto – look for the pink ‘skyscrapes’  - (left)      
•  Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi (the casino – only open in the winter) – (left)
•  Ca’ d’Oro – (left)
•  Ponte di Rialto (Second Bridge)
•  Ca’ Foscari (The University) – (right)
•  Ca’ Rezzonico – (right)
•  The Ponte Accademia (First Bridge)
•  Collezione Peggy Guggenheim – (right)
•  Basilica della Salute – (right)
•  San Marco  - (left)